Harness, Head Collar or Collar? What to Use for a Dog That Pulls (UK Guide)

Walking equipment won’t teach your dog to walk on a loose lead by itself. Only training does that (see our 21-day loose-lead plan). But the right kit makes walks safer and more comfortable while you train, and the wrong kit can make things worse.

🐾 Photo wanted Close-up of Paul's dog wearing a well-fitted harness, showing the chest and back clips TODO: replace with Paul's own dog photo

The main options compared

	Harness (chest and back clip)	Head collar	Flat collar
How it works	Spreads pressure across the chest and shoulders. A chest clip gently turns the dog towards you when they pull.	Steers the head, which makes pulling harder.	Pressure sits on the neck.
Good for	Most dogs, including puppies and dogs in training	Some large, strong dogs, used alongside training	Carrying ID tags; very light lead walking
Watch-outs	Must fit well to avoid rubbing and restricting movement	Needs gradual introduction; never jerk the lead; some dogs dislike the strap on the face	Pulling puts pressure on the throat and neck
Our view	Best starting point	Useful tool for some dogs	Not ideal for dogs that pull

Harnesses

Not all harnesses are equal. Look for:

• Two attachment points. A chest (front) ring and a back ring. Clipping to the chest reduces the leverage a dog has when pulling. The back ring is comfortable for relaxed walks or with a double-ended lead.
• A “Y” shape at the front, so the straps sit on the breastbone rather than straight across the shoulders.
• Adjustment at both neck and chest, plus padding where straps meet the body.

Harness fit check

• You can slide two fingers under every strap. Not more, not fewer.
• Straps sit away from the armpits (well behind the front legs) so they don’t rub.
• The harness doesn’t twist or slide to one side when the dog moves or pulls.
• Your dog can move their shoulders freely when walking and trotting.
• Re-check fit regularly, especially with growing puppies or after a change in weight or coat.

Head collars

A head collar has a loop around the nose and a strap behind the ears, rather like a horse’s headcollar. Because it steers the head, pulling becomes much harder, which some owners of big, strong dogs find makes walks manageable.

To use one kindly:

• Introduce it slowly over several days. Pair the nose loop with treats, let your dog put their nose through it voluntarily, and build up wearing time at home before using it on walks.
• Never jerk or yank the lead. Keep the lead slack. A head collar is for gentle guidance only.
• Use a double-ended lead clipped to both the head collar and a harness, so most of the time the harness takes any pressure.
• Watch for pawing at the face, rubbing the nose along the ground or shutting down. Those dogs may be better in a harness.

Flat collars

A flat, comfortable collar is great for carrying an ID tag. Under the Control of Dogs Order 1992, a dog on a highway or in a public place must wear a collar with the owner’s name and address on it or on an attached tag, so most dogs wear one anyway. (legislation.gov.uk: Control of Dogs Order 1992, article 2)

For a dog that pulls, though, walking from the collar puts pressure on the neck and throat each time they lunge forward. Use a harness for the lead and keep the collar for ID.

What we’d steer clear of

• Choke (check) chains and slip leads used to “correct” pulling. They tighten around the neck.
• Prong or pinch collars. These are designed to work through discomfort.
• “No-pull” harnesses that tighten under the armpits. Look for designs that don’t squeeze when the dog pulls.
• Retractable leads for training. They teach that pulling makes the lead longer.

Tools that work through pain or fear may stop pulling in the moment, but they don’t teach your dog what to do instead. They can also make dogs worried about walks or about other dogs.

Next step

Pick the kit, check the fit, then start the training. Our 21-day plan to stop pulling on the lead walks you through it day by day.